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European cleanser market takes a bath.
January 4, 2016
By: Imogen Matthews
Of all the beauty categories, personal cleansers are probably the most functional, but Europeans also count on them to take a timeout during the day and recharge their batteries. However, recent declines in sales of soap, bath and shower products point to consumers looking to save money and adopt more economical routines, such as taking fewer baths. European sales of bath and shower products slipped 7.1% to $5.7 billion last year, according to Canadean, with most markets considered to be depressed. The biggest drop came from Russia, down a third, while Italy, France and Spain were expected to post declines of 7-8%. The UK was the lone bright spot, with a slight (0.8%) uptick in sales, according to Canadean. The picture wasn’t much better for the European soap market, where sales were expected to drop 8.5% to $3.3 billion, with a similar decline expected for Russian bath and shower products. Once again, the UK held firm with a sales increase of 3.4% expected in 2015. Europeans tend to take a shower, using shower gel or soap, first thing in the morning, according to Kantar Worldpanel. The trend is most marked amongst French consumers, of whom 59% shower early in the day, compared to 30% who do so in the evening. Russian and Polish consumers have more nocturnal showering habits, with only 37% and 35% showering in the morning, compared to 46% and 45% who do so between 6-11pm. Taking a bath is a more relaxed affair that Europeans are more likely to do at the end of the day. The exception is French consumers who are more likely to take baths in the morning (50%), compared to just 14% of Poles. These differences highlight potential opportunities for personal cleansing brands to target consumers with appropriate products aimed at maximizing their enjoyment of showering and bathing. Travel in the Tub? Travel has opened up consumers’ minds to unusual and exotic experiences that they are now able to replicate in their own bathrooms through the use of spa-inspired bath and shower products. Recent spa-inspired launches include The Body Shop Fuji Green Tea bath and body care range whose bath tea is sourced from the Mount Fuji region of Japan, which comes in a tea caddy and is designed to be used with a bath infuser, similar in design to those used for loose tea leaves. Rituals home and body products are based on Eastern traditions with a sub-brand collection that reflects these, such as creating one’s own private hammam, or immersing oneself in the Ayurvedic philosophy. A new addition to the Rituals family is Oriental Dream Creamy Cacao & Almond Milk shower foam, described as capturing “the lifestyle of the ancient Bedouin and discover a warming ceremony of indigenous ingredients from the mystic Orient.” The product highlights experiential qualities that are reminiscent of the atmosphere that could be achieved at a spa. Bath and shower products such as these come far more cheaply than going to a spa or salon for a professional treatment. According to Canadean’s research, European consumers consider that the top benefit of home beauty and grooming treatments compared with going to a salon is that they are cheaper, while convenience is a high priority as well. “This creates opportunities for bath and shower brands to capitalize through novel formats, enhanced beauty benefits, exotic ingredients and treatment-style offerings to deliver a spa-inspired solution at a premium,” said Jamie Mills, analyst for Canadean, while pointing out that the challenge lies in convincing consumers that they can simulate the exact experience in the home with minimal effort but with the same level of efficacy. Natural Is Best Natural continues to be a key consideration for Europeans, according to Canadean’s global consumer survey 2014 research, which shows that 36% of those using bath and shower products once a week or more are highly concerned about the presence of chemicals in beauty and grooming products. Women are even more likely to highlight the importance of natural claims (45%). “Consumers continue to associate ‘natural’ claims with ‘better-for-you’ solutions, which are particularly important in today’s health conscious society,” maintained Mills, who points out that 61% of Europeans agree that health and beauty products formulated with natural ingredients are better for them. Evidence that personal cleansing brands are responding to consumer demand is that just under half (41%) of Europeans perceive naturally formulated products to be on a par with traditional “non-natural” ones. “Consumers already have positive efficacy perceptions of many natural ingredients as well, facilitating and encouraging this approach to formulation and positioning,” stated Mills. An example is coconut oil, which 60% of Europeans believe to be effective in a beauty/grooming product, according to Canadean’s Q2 global consumer survey 2015. One example is Cusson’s Original Source Squench All in One Moisturizing Shower Pineapple & Coconut Oil, which contains soft oil beads that burst on contact with the skin. Meanwhile, coconut water—dubbed a superfood—is used in French brand Tahiti Coconut Water Shower Gel for its perceived health benefits. Shower oils are an emerging trend, reflecting the popularity of oils in facial care, due to technological improvements to formulations that leave skin moisturized but not greasy. L’Occitane Shower Oil contains almond oil that transforms into foam on contact with water and imparts a satin-feel to the skin. Jeune Pousse Body Shower Oil capitalizes on the growing popularity of plant-based oils and is formulated with baobab oil to deliver intense moisturization to the skin. Premium brand, Aromatherapy Associates, sells bath and shower oils in a range of variants, including Relax, Revive and De-Stress, based on essential oil blends that are said to impact on the mind as well as body. Moving forward, natural for natural’s sake is unlikely to be enough as European consumers seek reassurance that personal cleansing formulations are non-toxic, safe to use, but also perform at a high level. But above all, they must be enjoyable to use.
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